Monday, November 23, 2015

Filling in the Blanks: B_rc_l_n_

I went to Barcelona without doing the usual preparation. I had no map of the tourist attractions, no guide book or suggested tours. I went knowing that I would be exploring on my own since Jon would be at a conference, and there wouldn't be any family around to keep asking, "Where are we going?" or "Why are we here?"
The advantage of staying at a nice hotel was that there was a free shuttle to take me downtown, and a concierge who gave me a map and circled the one sight I must see. So that is how I found myself dropped off outside this building, and then wandering off in search of what I believed to be the most visited church to the city.  Along
the way I noticed other buildings with unusual chunky architecture. But I wasn't prepared for the Familia Sagrada. It totally confused me. Along with the tarps, cranes and scaffolding, there was altogether too much going on. Some details were religious, other seemed right out of a Dr Seuss book. And there were letters, or words, floating around as if anyone could just come and add on their own details during the construction. This is the most popular attraction in Barcelona?
I walked around the other side and it became more bizarre. Where the first side might have resembled a sand castle, it was at least finished with straight lines. Now I was looking at a rough facade with no form. On closer inspection there were large fruits and a Christmas tree in among the blobs and globs.  Who was responsible for this? I could imagine it might have seemed like a good idea long ago, but it was being built today.  Needless to say, I didn't stand in the long line and pay to go inside. I decided to see what else Barcelona had for me.
I walked the wide streets down to the Arc de Triomf and through the Parc de la Ciutadella. Again I was surprised, this time by the number of noisy birds that seemed to be parrots, or parakeets. I didn't know there were parrots in Europe. But they were everywhere, building nests in the trees.
At this point I was anxious to sit down and figure some of what I was seeing. I needed WiFi in order to do some research.
Back at the hotel I started reading about the famous architect Antoni Gaudi who is responsible for much of what is unique about Barcelona. He started the construction of the Familia Sagrada 130 years ago, and it was meant to be his masterpiece. Many other buildings, the paving
stones and parks showcase his work. The style is Modernist, and it represents a break with everything that has come before.  Anything goes, and anything does. There are curves where we would usually see boxes, and fanciful details in the place of function. It is different, and certainly draws a crowd.
Gaudi and his works are not without controversy. Picasso was know to say, "Send Gaudi and the Familia Sagrada to hell." I don't know if this was because he objected to the modernist style, or that he resented the money and attention Gaudi attracted in Barcelona. The Familia Sagrada attracts five million paying tourists a year, but it also costs 25 million euros a year to build. There was even talk of constructing a direct train from France, just to bring in more tourists to the church. Whether you think Gaudi's buildings are beautiful or not, they are the sort of place you feel you have to see.  There is a fascination in their oddity. But then I felt the same thing about Picasso!

I arrived in Barcelona knowing very little, and learned much. I looked up the parakeets as well.  There is a large feral population of monk parakeets in the city that can cause problems, especially during nesting season.
There is so much more to see in Barcelona, and it is all fascinating, leading us on to find the how's and why's that fill in the gaps of our personal experiences.

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