My travelling companions have other plans today, and my stay in La Spezia will end tomorrow. I couldn't leave without seeing the "Five Lands", five picturesque fishing villages on the coast. I wasn't sure what I would find, or how I would get there, and I was going by myself.
Buying the train ticket out was easy, and I only had one stop to go. Getting off at Riomaggiore was confusing, as there was no immediate view, or quaint fishing village. I followed others onto the "Lover's Walk" only to be disappointed. This walkway, hanging onto the side of the cliff used to be the way from one village to the other by foot, but since 2011 it has been closed. I had to be satisfied with a tunnel leading into the town. I was determined, however, to find a way to the next village if possible. I wandered around town, climbed as high as possible, and finally caught sight of some hikers climbing some stone steps in the vineyards on the opposite side of the valley.
The path was more than I expected and I was soon puffing and panting. I began to understand why people go by boat, train, or even the ill-advised car. As I stopped to catch my breath, a butterfly fluttered effortlessly in front of me. Oh, to be a butterfly and flit along. But I was reminded that a butterfly's life is short and easy. I am a human, and my life is a lot longer, more difficult, and a lot more meaningful. Butterflies exist, I live.
I finally reached the top and started the descent into the next village. I met a lady going down who asked me about the path above. She had given up and started down again. I told her she could take the train, to which she responded, "What would be the fun in that?" That is living!
I did briefly consider taking the train back after my time exploring Manarola. It is a beautiful town, and full of steep steps. However, I did like the idea of taking a path that few others did. Not only is it steep and slippery, but it is also nearly impossible to find without help. You are climbing in and out of private gardens, vineyards and alley ways. It adds to the sense that you are exploring, finding something new. So I went back up the path, this time with a full water bottle. Word must of got out, because the path was now busy with families and picnickers.
And I arrived back in Riomaggiore with a sense of accomplishment. Of course, I rewarded myself with the local ice-cream. I chose melon and lemon flavor, because they sounded refreshing. Although I was tired from the climb, it seemed too early to go home, and I had time to walk around town. I visited the marina and marveled at the way the fishermen stack their boats when they are not in use. There is no boat lift, and I'm not sure how they get their boats up and out of the water on a daily basis. It can't be easy. Some boats were way up the hill on front doorsteps. Who would want to live here? Everything would be difficult, without a car, hauling everything up and down. These villagers do not envy the butterfly. They acknowledge that life is tough, but it is worth living.
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